Aultmore – Batch 1 (That Boutique-y Whisky Company)

aultmore-bigBefore we go any further, let me say this very clearly: the label has a picture of velociraptor eating a shark, with an oil rig exploding in the background. Click on that image and enjoy it in ALL its glory. According to the bottlers:

‘That Boutique-y Whisky Company’ searched high and low to find a wealth of interesting stories and legends about this Speyside distillery but to no avail. So you get a Velociraptor fighting a shark – enjoy.”

As they say, there’s not a huge amount to say about Aultmore distillery. Located in Banffshire, it was founded in 1895, but passed through various hands until Dewars, part of Bacardi, acquired it in 1998.

So what can we say about the whisky?

Colour: Early Grey tea, without milk. On the nose: absolutely divine. Creme brûlée, big heaps of vanilla, gooey room-temperature soft Somerset brie, a zippy lemon curd freshness. Then into something deeper on the back end: an almost desert wine note, getting on for sherry, but not quite, then right in there with apple and cinnamon.

In the mouth: Wow. That all came through superbly. Big juicy dram, this. Plum jam. A delicious texture, a touch silky, but not overly viscous. Lingering maltiness. Bitter chocolate. Swirl around some more and… spices, as if from nowhere, assault the senses. Peppery, woody. Intense viognier notes. But in there, almost unfathomable, are a bunch of concentrated herb flavours. Sometimes a whisky just absolutely hits the spot – and for me, this is one of those whiskies.

Let’s not mess about now – just buy it. A 50cl bottle will cost you a mere £35 – and I’d recommend it without a doubt. Even if your tastebuds are alien and you hate it, you’ll at least have the finest whisky label in the world sitting in your collection.

Already a top 5 whisky of 2012 for me. And to think, they had me at ‘shark’.


I've written about (and reviewed) whisky for Whisky Magazine, among other publications, and have been a whisky judge for competitions including the World Whiskies Awards. I've done other writing too: several mass market genre novels, a few short stories, including for BBC Radio 4. For my day job (I know, I don't get out much) I work in digital content. Follow me on Instagram.com/maltreview/ or Twitter.com/MaltReview. Generally, my tastes lean towards ex-sherry cask and ex-wine cask influences on the spirit, but I'm not so fussed as long as the whisky's gone into good wood.

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