This is not a whisky, not even made from anything malted. They call it “Texas Spirit”, and, although it’s not like any spirit I’ve yet encountered in Texas, it’s got something interesting. It’s a blend of wildflower honey, mission figs, turbinado sugar, and spring water. They claim it’s got notes of tequila, honey, young cognac, and scotch, and it’s matured in small oak casks – no word on how long – and bottled at 47%.

So what’s it like?

That’s hard to say, exactly. Really.

In the glass: A lovely mid-grade amber colour. Nothing special. No deep dark depths or anything

On the nose: At first, I thought “Ah, it smells like rum”. Maybe rum made of honey. There’s something fruity in there as well – like a fruit salad made with a nice gewurtztraminer – it’s got that spicy smell, without the spice itself. Caramelised sugar that’s like rum. Honey. Definitely honey. And that rum? Like a much darker rum than the colour suggests.

In the mouth: Unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. Honey. A bit like Benedictine. There’s spice and definite honey. It tastes like it should be sweeter than it is. There are layers of complexity, and the oak has added something, definitely. There’s a hint of clove and spice. In the middle it does indeed leave a hint of young cognac, fruity with a bit of a burn about it. It leaves a long, spicy, honey-laden finish, without a hint of cloying.

All in all, it’s really delicious. I would guess that they were trying to make something that could be an unusual mixer in cocktails, something that would be hard to replace, something they could sell up to posh bars as a differentiator, but I think to mix this would be a shame – there’s a lot of depth to it. This is something you could easily sip on on a fairly regular basis, and perhaps give to someone who isn’t a whisky drinker.

It’s a bit of an oddity – the brain keeps trying to categorise it, to judge it against rum, or cognac, or whisky. It’s not particularly good at any of those, and the flavour profile keeps changing as it wanders over your palate.

This is a fine spirit that you might find yourself getting through all too quickly – particularly at £67 for a 750ml bottle.


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