Taste: Clan Denny Port Dundas 21 year old

We’ve reached the final stop on our recent batch of mystery drams from Malt Review. This one was really enjoyable and during my tasting notes I was torn between going with a grain due to the coconut (often a clear sign) or something international due to the aspect I couldn’t pin down.

In essence that’s what is so enjoyable about these drams swaps. I’m fortunate that I have a little more monthly spending power than others to indulge in the odd bottle of single malt. Even so, there is no way I can accommodate every release or hidden gem out there so swaps such as these expand horizons and your experiences. First up the details of this impressive grain release:

Distillery: Port Dundas (now closed)
Distilled: 1992
Bottled: 2013
Strength: 55.7%
Cask: Refill hogshead #9542
Released by: Douglas Laing & Co as part of the Clan Denny label
Price: expect to pay around £70

Colour: rapeseed oil

Aroma: the first arrival is coconut followed by crushed mint leaves and toasted oats. The coconut really floats across the nose here, creamy yet not overpowering the other characteristics; almost acting as a seasoning.  Then citrus but not as ripe as pineapple, rather a berry brethren in the form of kiwi fruit, which I acknowledge technically isn’t of the citrus family.

Vanilla pod is next in line and a musty earthy aspect that I can only translate as green tea of all things. Mmm, a great nose actually although I’m thinking this is more engineered with great skill rather than a single cask release – well see soon enough!  

Taste: A gentle spicing not as forward as black pepper, more white in its gentleness. Also notable is one of my least favourite flavours; grapefruit. In this context rather than a solo artist it works. This moves into blood orange but its all well rounded with no rough edges if you follow my meaning, lovely balance and harmony. There is an element underpinning all of this I cannot quite place. I’ve drifted from rosemary to Sauvignon Blanc vinegar in my search. This note is purely background orientated as weird as those suggestions sound or taste!  

A lovely dram. This month’s Scotch Malt Whisky Society magazine is devoted to grain whisky. After about 2 decades grain casks come into their own and deserve a little more of the limelight. Prices are starting to rise for grain but there are some bargains out there – I’ll try to bring a little more grain to whisky rover shortly.


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